My model production method is introduced on this page.
It is another question whether it becomes helpful.

First of all, it is introduction of a kit.
(Has decal fallen out by the picture.)
A kit is NSR250.
For composition, it is two sheets which parts attach to the cylindrical runner.
It and small bags are bags, such as transparent cowl (it is not usually transparent), a rubber tire, and a screw.
A 500 cc racer etc. has many part mark, and, as for one more sheet, a runner with parts is attached.
In order to carry out the spray paint of that in which the unevenness of paint is conspicuous first at the time of completion, such as cowl, it separates from a runner with nippers.
Cut end It cleans by the waterproof paper of No. 1000.
Since it may be divided by right and left, cowl, chamber, etc. are pasted up (left parts).
A joint, a level difference, etc. are fill uped with lacquer putty after dryness of adhesives (central parts).
It deletes by the waterproof paper of No. 400 after dryness of putty, and a joint is prepared (right parts).
If this is completed, the whole paint side will be tamed by the waterproof paper of No. 1000. (It becomes good with of paint a meal by carrying out like this.)
The color of parts is different because it is the thing of a different kit.
Next, it deletes using neutral detergent, dregs are flushed, and moisture is wiped off well.
(The parts which do not make putty correction do not do this work .@It is better to all wash elegance in fact. )
The thing which cut the runner with parts and was made cylindrical is attached in the portion which it has under paint and hides after completion of parts as a hand with a quick-drying glue (left parts).
and first of all, ground paint (surfacer: -- although it is usually a gray, when paint is a bright color, White surfacer is used, and Pink surfacer is used at the time of a red system) is performed (right parts)
This has many effects of making easy to discover a crack, a level difference, etc. which improve coloring of a paint color and which improve with a meal.
Does it turn out that the joint fill uped with putty is lost finely?
The bag with which the part was contained instead of the glove when painting incidentally, the bag of a convenience store, etc. are used.
After ground paint dryness (let's take a dryness period the 1st day or more.), the whole is again tamed by the waterproof paper of No. 1500, and neutral detergent washes.
And they are the paint main still more.
In the main paint, past spraying is strict prohibition most.
If it sprays too much, a paint will hang down, or a bubble is generated when spray distance with parts is near.
When it fails, paint is removed by lacquer thinner and it is resumption from ground paint.
A point is applying repeatedly and piling up thinly.
If it paints thickly, only as for the part of a paint, parts will appear thick at the time of completion.
When the color to paint is a bright color with gloss, paint of a ground may be transparent and it may not become a as desired color.
Two coats of the color same at such times is given several times as thinly as possible.
But about me, a solid color is sprayed at once generally, and metallic color is sprayed only twice.
Then, the feeling which can be painted in an exactly good condition kept about the body.
Parts other than a wheel and cowl are the completion of paint even here.
Next, the clear for taking out gloss is painted.
Although the main paint with gloss also comes out of some glosses, a clear is painted in order to make the gloss of a paint side uniform.
Although a wheel etc. blows this and it is the completion of paint, cowl does not go so.
It is necessary to apply cowl to the grade which is not given since it polishes by rubbing/polishing compound after this thickly.
this extent that is not given -- hard -- when it was the beginning, the clear was sprayed 2 or 3 times thinly
It can paint now to a grade just before getting used and hanging down at once recently.
The gloss of a paint side is taken out with polishing up only a clear layer uniformly by rubbing/polishing compound after dryness.
If it polishes up, neutral detergent will wash again, and decal is stuck.
If it will float from pasteboard if soaked in water for dozens seconds, and this is stuck and moisture dries, the paste currently attached to decal will also be dried and it will stick.
Although extended to some extent, if the softening agent of commercial decal is thinned with water, and is attached and it is made to get used with pen when making it stick to a curved surface, it can stick finely.
In order to reproduce a complicated color ring recently, the kits (this kit is also that's right) which stick and use a pile abundantly have been increasing in number.
Since excessive paste etc. will float if it dries, it wipes with the tissue which attached water lightly.
The last paint is the topcoat of Gunze.
A water clear paint does not hurt decal, although it is water therefore.
For this reason, it paints for unification of the gloss after sticking decal, and protection.
(racer motorcycle which corrects and uses decal abundantly)
About me, it is a paint end now.
But the lacquer clear which some men instead thinned is painted until decal will be completely buried with an airbrush into a clear layer (until the level difference of decal and a paint side is lost), and there are those who polish up by rubbing/polishing compound.
The level difference of decal is lost by doing this, and it is visible as if decal painted.
It is because it thinks that a thing with troublesome using an airbrush and the gloss of topcoat are enough if it says why there am not any I about this.
If spray paint is completed briefly, it will go into an assembly at last.
But the parts which have not been separated from the runner who did not do spray paint before it carry out ground paint the whole runner.
The rest assembles fine paint according to directions of a description, carrying out brush painting in enamel system paints.
When attaching cowl, a reverse-side side is painted by lusterless black, and the wax for models is covered over the surface.
It is completion now!
The lacquer system can spray currently used, the enamel system paint for brush painting, and almost all other tools are using the product made from Tamiya.

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